After years of dreadful press that defined Athens as a broken-down capital prone to fiery riots, the city’s self-confidence and creativity are stirring again. Enterprising young fashion and graphic designers are opening shops celebrating the classic lines of ancient Greece and the anarchic wit of modern times. In reviving city squares, there are new restaurants and cafes serving native delicacies like Cretan sausage and sheep’s milk yogurt with preserved quince. The five-year-old Acropolis Museum is consistently rated one of the top museums in the world, and the National Museum of Contemporary Art is set to move into a new building later this year. Even rough times have silver linings.

Friday

1. ­Muses and Orators | Noon

Walk along the wildflower-dotted Hill of the Muses, pierced by the marble monument to Philopappos, a Greek-Syrian nobleman who served as a Roman consul. Greeks like to fly kites here on Clean Monday, but it’s usually crowd-free, with good views of the Acropolis and the city. A trail leads past the 15th-century church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, which is named after the Greek word for cannon because, legend has it, an Ottoman soldier was struck dead by lightning just as he was about to fire a cannon at the congregation. North of the Philopappos monument is the Pnyx, where Athenian citizens and orators like Pericles, Themistocles and Demosthenes spoke. There’s still a large stone platform here that’s popular with tourists and locals channeling the ancients (if only for a selfie).

2. ­ Comfort Food, Updated | 3 p.m.

Get a modern taste of hearty Peloponnesian cuisine at Manimani, an excellent and inexpensive restaurant housed in a restored neo-Classical house not far from the Acropolis Museum. Try the yellow split peas with onion chutney (5 euros, or $6.15 at $1.23 to the euro), the sweet green salad with soft katiki cheese and dried figs (7.50 euros), and the homemade noodles, called hilopites, simmered with chicken, fennel, sun-dried tomatoes and basil (9.50 euros). For dessert, walk to the Fresko yogurt bar, where you will discover there are multiple varieties of the thick, strained “Greek yogurt.” Fresko has yogurt made from the milk of cows, goats and sheep, as well as a variety of traditional toppings ranging from thyme honey to “spoon sweets” (fruit boiled in sugar and lemon juice).
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Visitors at the Acropolis. Credit Chris Carmichael for The New York Times

3. ­ Acropolis Now | 5 p.m.

The five-year-old Acropolis Museum, designed by the Swiss-born architect Bernard Tschumi, houses spectacular artifacts from the country’s most famous site. Finds date from the Hekatompedon, the oldest known building on the Acropolis, though the showcase is the Parthenon Gallery, where portions of the Parthenon frieze are dramatically displayed. Most of the frieze is, of course, at the British Museum in London. (Lord Elgin had the sculptures from the Propylaea and the Erechtheum removed between 1801 and 1812, when Greece was still part of the Ottoman Empire.)

4. ­ The Road to Hipster Square | 7 p.m.

Restaurants, cafes and bars have bloomed along the back streets between Syntagma, across from parliament, and Monastiraki, home of a lively marketplace. Meliartos is a standout bakery, cafe and creamery that uses locally sourced ingredients for its pies, sandwiches, ice cream and yogurt. Lukumades is named after the luscious fried dough balls that are the main course here, served with honey, chocolate praline or mastic-flavored ice cream. On nearby Agia Eirini Square cigarette-rolling hipsters sip Stubborn Mules at Osterman, which also has one of the best brunches in town.

5. ­ Greek Wine and Cheese | 9 p.m.

A low-key but excellent wine bar, Heteroclito celebrates the Greek vineyard, which has been growing in body, flavor and international respectability. Grab a table outside and order a glass of Melissokipos, a white from Crete, and the excellent Greek cheese platter (8 euros), with aged dry anthotiro (a goat’s milk cheese) from the Cretan city of Chania and smoked, spicy cow’s milk cheese from the northern city of Naoussa.
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Six d.o.g.s., a cafe-bar and arts space. Credit Chris Carmichael for The New York Times

6. ­Art and Song | 10 p.m.

Many artists in Athens say Greek culture wallows too much in its past and fails to appreciate the dynamism of its present. These voices — visual and musical — have found homes in the Art Foundation (known as TAF) and Six d.o.g.s. TAF opened in 2009 in a renovated 19th-century complex with galleries and a space for lectures, plays and concerts. Six d.o.g.s. has an excellent cafe-bar and spacious garden and hosts concerts ranging from underground metal-rap to nostalgic indie-folk.
Saturday

7. ­ Award-Winning Coffee | 9 a.m.

Athens used to be a tough place for coffee snobs. But at Yiannis Taloumis’s Cafe Taf, you can revel in that perfect cup of Kageyo Cooperative Rwandan coffee. Taf’s barista, Stefanos Domatiotis, was named World Brewers Cup Champion for 2014. Enjoy a fresh-brewed cup with a piece of apple pie or vanilla cake at the cafe (5 to 6 euros), on the edge of the bohemian Exarchia neighborhood.
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8. ­ Ancient Cubism | 11 a.m.

The Museum of Cycladic Art showcases the trove of Greek art belonging to the shipping magnate Nicholas Goulandris and his wife, Dolly. Most of that art came from the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea, where an ancient civilization flourished between 3300 and 200 B.C. The collection includes the noted geometric figurines that inspired Cubist art as well as frescoed Minoan vessels and Roman-era jewelry from Cyprus (7 euros).

9. ­ Vegetarian Delight | 2 p.m.

Greeks love their meat, so vegetarians often make do with salads, spinach pies and eggplant dip. The Greek-Iranian couple who opened Avocado near Syntagma Square created an eclectic menu of Greek, Asian and macrobiotic dishes and a juice bar. Try the black-eyed pea patties with Florina sweet peppers (7 euros) and the Brama Briam panini (7.50 euros), with roasted eggplant, red peppers and cheese from Metsovo. If you need a quick energy boost, get a Go Green (a smoothie made from spinach, parsley, apple, lemon and ginger, 4.90 euros). This is one of the few restaurants where the smoking ban is enforced.

10. ­ Live Your Myth | 4 p.m.

In pre-crisis days, Athenians often power-shopped for Gucci and Fendi in the old-money neighborhood of Kolonaki. Now there’s been a revival in clothes and accessories designed by Greeks. Koukoutsi features elegant T-shirts, bags, diaries and postcards. T-shirts cost around 25 euros. If you have more to spend, go to Zeus & Dione, which showcases upscale Greek jewelry artists like Ileana Makri, Liana Vourakis and Lito and also features beautifully fluid, Greek-inspired dresses like the Medea (750 euros). In Plaka, the neighborhood near the Acropolis, try souvenir-shopping at Forget Me Not, which sells Greek-made finds like Rainy July’s swimming-cap handbags (40 to 50 euros) and clothes inspired by ancient Greek iconography by the young fashion designer Nikoletta Ververidou.

11. ­ River Gods and Olympians | 6 p.m.

According to legend, the river god Ilissos worshiped in a sanctuary on Ardittos hill next to what is now the Panathenaic Stadium in Mets, a neighborhood in eastern Athens. The architect Anastasios Metaxas refurbished the ancient Olympic stadium in the late 19th century to host the Olympics in 1896. The Panathenaic Stadium, which the Greeks call Kallimarmaro (“beautiful marble”), is the finishing point for the Athens Classic Marathon held each fall. The stadium is a short walk from the National Gardens; take a stroll along the winding, landscaped paths and stop at the Aigli Cafe for a Greek-style tiramisù.

12. ­ Meze and Degustation | 9 p.m.

Greeks have become judicious about eating out, and there’s been an explosion of affordable tapas places, like Mavro Provato. Try the Myrto, a salad with roasted manouri cheese, nuts, oranges and blackberry dressing (6.90 euros); the sarikopita, a soft-cheese pie finished with honey and toasted sesame; and the Mavro Provato lamb slow-cooked in parchment with new potatoes and herbs (12 euros). A more expensive option is the Funky Gourmet in Keramikos, a creative spin on Greek food that deserves its two Michelin stars. The degustation menus are 100 to 195 euros per wine pairing, but you can sample delights such as Greek bottarga with white chocolate, snails, lamb chops and a smoked ice cream sandwich.
Sunday

13. ­ Brunch and Beach | 10 a.m.

Several new brunch places are catering to a long-ignored concept in Greece: breakfast food. The Nice N’ Easy cafe, known for its organic fare, serves huevos rancheros, pancakes and Bloody Marys (15 to 25 euros). The New Taste cafe, housed in the New Hotel near Syntagma Square, serves eggs Benedict and quiche (10 to 20 euros). After brunch, head out to Vouliagmeni Lake, set inside a jagged boulder and known locally as a natural spa. The lake, which stays warm year-round, is just south of the seaside suburb of the same name; entry: 8 euros. If you want to prance around in a designer swimsuit, go to Astir Beach, the fanciest spot along the so-called Athens Riviera. There’s a 25-euro fee for summer weekends, but it drops to 18 euros in the fall.

So you’re in Athens sightseeing or on business but are yearning wistfully for those blue seas you see on seemingly every advert, wall calendar or restaurant menu cover. Fear not – a refreshing salty dip is closer than you think. All around the coast of Attica are dozens upon dozens of beaches and swimming spots to cater to every taste, from organized, luxury options, to empty stretches of sand that will make you feel that the thrum of the city is a million miles away.

Below are some of our favourites, grouped roughly according to their distance from the city. But feel free to explore: there are plenty of mini-paradises to discover along each coast and all of the swimming spots around Athens have excellent water quality according to the latest annual report by the European Environmental Agency.

And even just a quick afternoon swim as the sun sets is always worth it. Just one word to the wise: on weekends (particularly in June and July before Athenians depart the city en masse for their holidays) things can get pretty crowded, so for best results if possible head to the sea during the week to avoid the crush and the traffic.
The beaches on the southern coast near Athens

These are the best option if you don’t have a huge amount of time or easy access to a car to take you to the other side of Attica. All the beaches on the south coast of Athens are easily accessible by taxi (and you won’t have a problem finding one to bring you back), or by tram and bus.

Astir Vouliagmeni

The ultimate luxury beach experience, Astir Vouliagmeni is considered one of the top spots for a summer swim in Athens. Located – as it’s name would suggest – in the chic southern suburb of Vouliagmeni, Astir offers a full range of high-quality services, from free WiFi across the beach, to the ability to pre-book one of the large and comfortable sun-loungers. And of course, a wide selection of coffees, ice creams, food and drink are all available.

All of this of course comes at a price – Astir is one of the relatively few beaches with an entrance fee which is 18 euros during the week and 28 euros on the weekends per adult. But if what you are after is some pampering (as well as some fascinating people watching) then it’s worth the fee. Even despite the high price weekends can still get very busy so head there early to guarantee getting an umbrella (or prebook). The beach is open from 08:00-21:00, although you can visit the restaurant until midnight.

Kavouri

Also located in the suburb of Vouliagmeni, Kavouri is actually a pine-tree covered peninsula studded with expensive villas. There are several sandy stretches where one can swim although the most popular is Megalo Kavouri towards the tip of the western coast which is organized with sunbeds for rent as well as free areas. As on many beaches, here you will also find many people playing ‘raketes’ or beach paddle ball (a national sport in Greece) in the open space behind the beach.

The beach is sandy and the water shallow for quite a distance and there are a number of places to buy refreshments. The beach is also relatively easy to get to via public transport: take the metro to Elliniko station and from there the 122 bus.
Vouliagmeni Lake

Vouliagmeni lake

Not quite a beach but a rare geological formation located next to the sea. The waters of the lake are fed up by saltwater via underground currents, through the mountain (although there is still some mystery about how this occurs). Near the sun-beds the water is quite shallow although at the opposite end they sink to unknown depths. In the lake the waters are often slightly warmer than in the sea, so it is particularly popular earlier in the season. Generally peaceful and quiet, it is a good option if you want easy access to plenty of amenities without the thump of a nearby beach-bar.

The facilities of the lake include the all-day bar, restaurant, changing rooms, showers and full wheelchair access. It is also worth staying for a drink in the evening when the rock walls are lit up and soft music floats out over the still waters.
South-Coast

One of the most popular spots to swim in Athens itself located in the southern suburb of Voula. The sandy beach offers a range of services and has high-quality sunbeds at reasonable prices. During the summer, beach parties are also often organized with performances by well-known Greek singers.

Entrance during weekdays is 4 euros per head and 5 euros over the weekend. The beach is also easily accessible via public transport: either take the metro to Elliniko station and then the 122 bus or take the tram to the terminal stop of Asklipio Voulas.

Yabanaki – Varkiza

Not just a beach but a beach park with a full suite of services and amusements, located in the southern suburb of Varkiza. Here you will find a range of options for coffee, refreshments, fast food or seafood meze and ouzo. A full range of water sports is also available from waterskiing and banana boats to stand-up paddleboarding and windsurfing lessons. In the afternoons a fully supervised play area with numerous large bouncy castles also operates for children.

During the weekdays the entrance fee is 5 euros per head including an umbrella and sun loungers. On the weekends the entrance fee is 6 euros and you have to pay an additional 5 for an umbrella (although if you want just a late swim however entrance after 7pm is free). To get there via public transport take the metro to the Elliniko station and then the 171 bus or the 122 bus.
EDEM is the closest beach to the center of Athens

EDEM

The closest beach to the city center of Athens is Edem, a long sandy beach located near the boundary between the districts of Palio Faliro and Alimos. It is organized although as would be expected by its central location it also frequently gets busy. Aside from swimmers the area is also popular with people walking along the long seafront promenade that will take you to another two smaller beaches. Along the way you will also find a large chessboard built into the pavement where locals battle it out as they enjoy the warm weather and sea-breeze. From downtown the beach is easy to reach via tram (Edem stop).
The Southeast beaches near Sounio

After you leave Athens proper (arguably the outermost suburb of the city on the south coast is Varkiza) a roughly 35km stretch of coastal road takes you to Sounio, the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula and site of the Temple of Poseidon. All along the coast are multiple beaches although you need access to a car to easily reach them.

Beach of Sounio

An organized beach with umbrellas and all kinds of amenities, what really sets this swimming spot apart is its fantastic view of the Temple of Poseidon that makes you feel like you are soaking up ancient Greek culture even as you sun yourself on a comfortable sun lounger. Some parts are organized while others are still free for the public. The crystal clear waters make it up for the 1 hour long drive. Keep in mind that in August, there is little parking space. The tavernas near the beach make great seafood meze dishes.
KAPE Beach near Legrena

KAPE (CRES) beach

Named after the acronym for the nearby Center for Renewable Energy Sources, the KAPE (or CRES) beach is one that can really give you that island feel only an hour’s drive from Athens; the minute you set foot on the beach, you’ll be taken aback by the view of the Aegean.

With seafloor that is covered with small pebbles and crisp clean waters that get abruptly deep, you can have some truly magical swims here. However the once ‘secret spot’ has now become widely known, and given that it is not expansive it does get crowded on weekends. From the road you also need to walk down a short but steepish path. If you’re lucky a canteen may be open offering cold drinks and simple snacks but don’t rely on it and bring you’re own water.

A little further down another smaller, more secluded beach is known as a nudist beach.

Asimakis

One of the lesser-known beaches near the temple of Poseidon in Sounio is Asimakis, a good choice if you want to explore the temple but avoid the beaches nearest to it, as these get quite crowded. The beach is located on the way from Sounio to Lavrio and consists of a very clean sandy expanse. There are no beach umbrellas but there is a restaurant and cafe nearby for refreshments. About a 1 hour drive from Athens.
The Southeast beaches near Marathon

The northwestern coast of Attica also has some remarkable sandy expanses. These require access to a car to reach easily, but can also be linked to a visit to the site of the Battle of Marathon.

Kokkino Limanaki

Kokkino Limanaki is a solid favorite of those who want to keep things simple and forgo rented sunbeds. Located on the eastern coast of Attica 1.5km from Rafina, the beach is surrounded by trees, a facet that also makes it popular among campers. It is primarily made up of sand with some pebbles and is located about a 40 min drive from central Athens.
Mati Beach

One of the ‘hidden gems’ of Attica, this sandy expanse is located 2km away from the center of Nea Makri, a small town on the northeastern coast of Attica. The pretty beach is quiet, surrounded by trees, has shallow water close to the shore and is devoid of sunbeds and noisy beach bars making it a good option for families and others looking for a more relaxed ‘natural’ experience. It takes about 45 minutes to drive from central Athens without traffic.